Sam Sifton can now look forward to a lifetime of comped meals in Tom Colicchio’s and Mario Batali’s restaurants. More precisely, he can look forward to Colicchio and Batali picking up his tab in perpetuity just as soon as the Times stops doing so. All it took was one cynically inflated review of Colicchio & Sons and another of Del Posto. That the two restaurants happen to be on the same block in the Meatpacking district seems more than coincidental. This is where chefs, and apparently critics, go to cash in and sell out.